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Aktopak: Heart of the Arctic Day 2

Saturday, July 18, 2015 In the Arctic, summer sunrise comes more or less immediately after sunset, but thanks to the ship’s portholes and calm waters, we slept through. At 6:45 a.m., a happy voice over...

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Kangiqsujuaq: Heart of the Arctic Day 3

Sunday, July 19, 2015 Overnight, we entered Hudson’s Straight, where an immense amount of water comes from the Atlantic Ocean, creating massive tides and whirlpools of mythic proportions. With an early...

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Digges Island: Heart of the Arctic Day 4

Monday, July 20, 2015 This is the first time we’ve been north enough for sea ice, which reinforces the fact that we are on an expedition, not a cruise. We traveled through 1-3/10 sea ice for 45...

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Cape Dorset: Heart of the Arctic Day 5

Tuesday, July 21, 2015 Today we explored the Nunavut community of Cape Dorset, also known as Kinngait.  Cape Dorset is a meta-incognito micro continent, which simplistically means that there are a lot...

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Kimmirut: Heart of the Arctic Day 6

Wednesday, July 22, 2015 Kimmirut is a community of about 500 people, with the buildings clinging precipitously to the sloping landscape. The day was surprisingly warm, with a high of 14 C and sunny...

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Lower Savage Island: Heart of the Arctic Day 7

Thursday, July 23, 2015 Leaving Kimmerut, we headed for Baffin Bay, anchoring at Lower Savage Island just at the end of Frobisher Bay. We spent a couple hours on the zodiacs, not able to set foot on...

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Sea Ice Along Cumberland Sound: Heart of the Arctic Day 8

Friday, July 24, 2015 The Canadian Coast Guard has given us a strong warning to not enter Cumberland Sound due to the 9-10/10 ice. This sea ice is 9 to 10 years old, with sporadic glaciers that are...

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Nuuk: Heart of the Arctic Day 10

Sunday, July 26, 2015 We docked in Nuuk, the capital of Greenland, around dawn. We had successfully crossed the Davis Strait, formed 65 million years ago by a rift, thanks to a massive movement in the...

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Itilleq: Heart of the Arctic Day 12

Tuesday, July 28, 2015 We crossed the Arctic Circle at 07:37 today! Early in the day, we landed at Itilleq, a tiny community of 97 people, set in a hollow between two hillsides. Itilleq means hollow....

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Kangerlussuaq: Heart of the Arctic Day 13

Wednesday, July 29, 2015 After sailing up one of the longest fjords in the world, the delightfully scenic Söndre Strömfjord, we disembarked Ocean Endeavour for the last time, to explore the community...

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Heart of the Arctic: Reflections

Being back in the south for a couple weeks has given me a chance to reflect on the Heart of the Arctic expedition. The biggest imprints are three things: the inclusivity of the people, the vastness of...

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